Tšepang Molisana
Across the spectrum, from wineries with large portfolios to independent winemakers, sustainability is today’s noble pursuit – whether it’s under the Tuscan sun or in sunny South Africa…
Currently, there are over 30 certified organic wineries in South Africa. These range from vintners with large portfolios to small garagiste winemakers. Regardless of size, they have been recognised at home and abroad not only for their sustainable winemaking practices, but also for the quality of their wine. There are various international standards and controls that apply, in order to achieve organic certification in specific countries and regions. Organic winemaking methods are rigorously followed from the vineyard, into the cellar.
Spier Manor House
Tšepang Molisana writes that one of Stellenbosch’s oldest wineries, Spier was recognised by the 2022 Platters Guide for two organic wines that are exclusively available from Spier’s wine shop and its online store. The First Stone Organic Red Blend 2018 and the Spier Farmhouse Organic Chenin Blanc 2019 achieved a 4.5-star rating each.
Tania Kleintjes – Spier’s Organic Winemaker
“Spier started the organic conversion process in 2011, growing from 21ha of certified organic vineyards in 2015 to 118ha in 2022. This long-term commitment to making organic wines is in keeping with Spier’s ethically-, environmentally- and socially-conscious farming philosophy in which we harness the goodness of nature in ways that are kind to the earth,” explains Spier’s organic winemaker Tania Kleintjes.
Spier Signature Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2021
A further 8 Spier wines scored in the same band, while five other Spier wines were awarded five-stars each. The continuum of excellence at Spier is reflected by the 4-star rating for the Spier Signature Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2021, a familiar, everyday wine.
Spier Cellar Master, Johan Jordaan
Spier Cellar Master, Johan Jordaan remarks: “2021 was one for our winemaking books! Having recently taken the reins from the now MD, Frans Smit, there’s no doubt in my mind that winemaking is an inherited legacy of good choices and future thinking. I believe these Platter’s results are proof that the Spier team is headed towards an even brighter future.”
It is largely for this reason that Platters Guide selected Spier as the ‘Editor’s Award – Winery of the Year for 2022’ in recognition of the team’s performance and track record, and its outstanding international representation of South African wine.
Jolette Steyn
Spier was named winery of the year alongside Sadie Family Wines who achieved ten 5-star wines. In parallel, the Newcomer of the Year award went to independent winemaker, Jolette Steyn for her The Vineyard Party project that features two small-batch Semillon bottlings. She sources biodiverse, sustainably farmed grapes and applies low intervention in the cellar.
Wade Sander – Brunia Wines in Sondagskloof
Beyond the Platter accolades, South African winemakers continue to shift the needle for excellence forward both here and abroad, and particularly so in the organic wine arena. The Concours Mondial, one of the most prestigious awards programmes in the wine world, gave Spier’s Yellowwood Organic White 2021 a Grand Gold this year. And take Nedbank CWG Protégé Programme graduate, Wade Sander as yet another example. Sander has been internationally recognised for his winemaking prowess at Brunia in Sondagskloof. The Sander family’s acquisition of Brunia in 2016 has been a significant step forward for organic winemaking in South Africa.
Greg Sherwood MW
In pursuit of healthy soils and sustainable winemaking practices, the Sander family has transformed the farm into a mixed biodynamic and organic operation. Brunia Pinot Noir 2017 was awarded 92 points by London-based Master of Wine, Greg Sherwood, a regular judge at the Decanter World Wine Awards, SA Top 100, Nederburg Wine Auction and WOSA World Sommelier Awards. Additionally, the Brunia Pinot Noir 2017 received 90 points from global wine authority and Master of Wine Tim Atkin in his 2018 South Africa special report.
Querciabella Wine Estate, Italy
Further afield, South African winemaker Manfred Ing has been making waves at Querciabella, one of Italy’s top wineries, which happens to be organic, biodynamic and vegan. Previously, Ing worked in the Napa Valley in California, USA, and in New Zealand and Piedmonte in northwest Italy. Before leaving South Africa he worked at Villafonté in the summer of 2007 when Villafonté was still making its wine at Tokara Wine Estate.
South African winemaker at Manfred Ing at Querciabella
While Ing has not yet lost his Mzansi accent, his use of hand gestures when he speaks has taken on slightly more Italian inflections: “I’m lucky, I’m under no commercial pressure, it needs to be excellent. There’s an annual volume of 160,000 bottles of Chianti Classico and 14,000 bottles of Reserva. It’s not enough to go around the world! More than 50% of Chianti Classico is certified organic, this shows that it can be done.”
“Viticulture is monoculture,” he continues, “but Querciabella means ‘beautiful oak’. Biodiversity brings bees, insects and wild boar.” Extending the vineyard plant population beyond grapes and encouraging biodiversity has been a concerted effort in Italy.
Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni
“Querciabella has been certified European vegan since at least 1996, and biodynamic since 2000. Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni, the owner of the farm has been vegetarian and vegan for 20 years. He is a vegan venture capitalist, on the New York Stock Exchange. We have eliminated all animal products and animal byproducts – particularly manures – so we had to step up our cover-crop game,” Ing says.
In the past, organic wine was joked about as being ‘cloudy with a chance of wine’, however, viticulturists and winemakers have clearly stepped up, adopting avant-garde and sustainable vinification techniques that result in wines that are consciously good. The proverbial silver lining of that “cloud” can now be appreciated in the glass…
Spier Yellowwood Organic White 2021
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